Petoskey — When you think of northern Michigan, sartorial ingenuity isn’t the first thing that comes to mind. But have you heard of the Mackinaw jacket? You might not know the name, but you know the look.
In 1811, the British army was stationed up along the St. Mary’s River near Sault Ste. Marie. They couldn’t get the military-issued greatcoats from headquarters in Montreal so the captain, Charles Roberts, decided to improvise. He got hold of a supply of Hudson’s Bay point blankets and had them made into heavy wool greatcoats. Once the soldiers donned them, they all agreed that they were better than the standard-issue coats they usually received from the military.
The next year, in 1812, Roberts and his troops defeated the Americans in the siege of Fort Mackinac. They needed more coats. Again, Roberts ordered more Hudson’s Bay point blankets to be made into coats for his men. The fabric was black and red tartan. The iconic Mackinaw Jacket was born.
Originally, the Mackinaw jacket was double breasted. Today, it’s single breasted. Both buttons and zippers have been used to close the front over the years, though buttons are more common. Generally, there are four pockets on the front, two near the bottom for your hands, and two on the chest.
While the Mackinaw jacket is over 200 years old, every iteration from the 20th century onward feels totally modern and appropriate today. It is, without a doubt, a coat that belongs in every Michigan man’s wardrobe. Today you can find Mackinaw jackets made in a variety of colors, but the iconic look is still black and red tartan.
A proper Mackinaw jacket is made of thick, heavy wool. It shouldn’t fit too tight around the chest or restrict your movement. The front should close easily. It’s better to size up than down. Like any classic chore coat, it’s designed to be thrown over whatever you are wearing.
The four pockets are key to its practicality. The lower pockets protect your hands from biting wind, and you can pack the top pockets with tools, a pad of paper, or an iPhone, whether you are working on some project in the garage or heading out for a walk in the woods.
While the Mackinaw jacket is ideal for yard work, it can also be worn on a daily basis. When wearing a Mackinaw jacket out, it’s best to keep everything else informal. Dark leather shoes or boots. Jeans, chinos, or corduroys. Keep the shirt blue or white and any sweater blue, navy or dark green. Keeping things simple is important while wearing red-and-black tartan.
If you’re a Michigander, you should embrace your state and embrace the Mackinaw jacket. Stormy Kromer and Filson both sell classic iterations. If you want vintage, there is a treasure trove on eBay. Make sure that whatever you buy is 100% wool. I found mine on eBay for a great deal. Vintage Pendleton from the 1970s. Great condition. Made in the USA. The wool is thick like a peacoat. It’s perfect.
The Mackinaw jacket is best suited for autumn and winter. While there are chilly days in the spring, red and black tartan doesn’t feel right when the flowers are about to bloom. It feels most right when the leaves are falling in October and there is yard work to be done. Walking in the woods in late November. Cleaning out the garage so you can fit your car in before the snow starts. Heading out to shovel the walk before guests arrive on a January night.
We don’t think about Michigan as a hub of fashion. But we do have the Mackinaw jacket, and it’s great. It makes so much sense that the piece of clothing we can lay claim to is a hearty wool chore coat. It’s hard to think of a more appropriate garment to represent Michigan.
Clothes are an important aspect of culture. They reflect the attitudes, values, and lifestyles of their wearers. These are sewn with the cold wind of the north in mind. Designed for work and action outside in the elements.
The Mackinaw jacket is a true embodiment of what it means to be from Michigan. Every Michigan man needs one in his closet.
O.W. Root is a writer based in Northern Michigan, with a focus on nature, food, style, and culture. Follow him on X @NecktieSalvage.
