O.W. Root takes a fall road trip through northern Michigan’s “Tunnel of Trees,” fueled by cider, color, and a touch of melancholy. Then it’s south to Mount Pleasant, where he asks: how “Indian” is a town with a casino, a university, and a Starbucks on reservation land? The answer lies in the quiet corners—the Ziibiwing Center, an old Ojibwe mission, and a cemetery where the past rests amid crops and windmills.
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