Houghton — If you’re thinking about heading up to the U.P. this summer, there’s something you should know before you get on the road. There isn’t anything up here. That’s why you are coming, of course. You want to get away from it all. But you might not realize what that means for your drive.
There aren’t many gas stations, restaurants, coffee shops, or places of civilization up in this wooded land. If you’re hungry, or the tank is running low, you might be in trouble. If you’re about to fall asleep behind the wheel because you’ve been driving for six hours straight and there isn’t a coffee shop for another 50 miles, you are in trouble.
If you want to make it up to the Keweenaw without dying, you’ve got to have a plan.
This is your guide of where to stop, what to do, and how to get through the U.P. without dying.
Taste of the Upper Peninsula and Zodiac Party Store
You’ve made it over the bridge, but you still have a long way to go. You need some energy. You need fuel. You deserve a taste of the U.P. to welcome you now that you are here.
The Taste of the Upper Peninsula and Zodiac Party Store share the same red building right off US-2 just west of St. Ignace. If you are in the mood for a pasty, get it to go. If you need a little kick to stay awake, grab a Red Bull at the party store. No matter what you do, you must grab a Yooper Bar here. This is the first place you will encounter these U.P. cult classics now that you are over the bridge.
Bay View Inn
There isn’t too much in Epoufette. There’s no legally defined boundary or official population statistics. There is, however, the Bay View Inn, a cozy little diner right off US-2. The food is solid, the decor is unparalleled. The walls are covered with old tools, mounted fish, clocks, and hilarious signage of all types.
There’s a bank of windows facing south, looking over the wooded shoreline and rolling waves of Lake Michigan. A beautiful balcony with chairs and tables is open when the weather is nice. Bay View Inn is the perfect little place to grab a bite, get some coffee, and enjoy a beautiful view in a rustic atmosphere. Pure U.P. core.
The Gas Station at the Intersection of US-2 and M-77
There is a BP station at the intersection of US-2 and M-77. You want to stop here. You need to stop here. US-2, west of St. Ignace, is a beautiful drive, and it’s a great way to start your trip through the U.P., but once you turn onto M-77, things get rough.
You are going to head north on M-77 for a bit, and then turn west onto M-28 and the Seeney stretch, the longest stretch of straight road in all of Michigan. There aren’t many good gas stations or places to stop until you get up to Munising. You need to plan ahead.
You want to fill up the tank, use the restroom, and grab something to drink here in anticipation of what I consider to be the worst stretch of road heading north through the U.P.
Falling Rock Cafe & Bookstore
Once you’ve made it through the excruciatingly boring part of the drive, you’ve arrived in Munising. It’s time for a coffee. Stop in to the Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore. It’s a really cool place with great coffee and a nice menu. There’s a room full of tables, chairs, books, games, and an upright piano along the wall.
It’s always a little busy, but there’s more than enough room, and after the lonely drive on the Seeney Stretch, seeing people is very welcome.
There is civilization here. Munising is a nice little town, and the Falling Rock Cafe and Bookstore is a nice little place. Don’t rush. Take the coffee there. Sit for a few minutes, peruse the books, relax. You’ve made it to the northern side of the U.P.
Roadside Beach West of Munising
You’re firing on all cylinders now that you’ve got some fresh caffeine in your system. You’re going to make it. You’ve left Munising, and you’re headed west toward the Keweenaw. Driving along Lake Superior on M-28, you’ll notice there are tons of places to pull off and stop at the beach. You want to do that.
Don’t worry about swimming or staying very long. Just pull off for 10 or 15 minutes. Leave your shoes and socks in the car, walk barefoot through the dune grass down to the lake, put your feet in. A quick stop at the beach isn’t going to stall your trip. You don’t get this back home. Breathe deep, you are in the U.P.
L’Anse
L’Anse is a little town in the crook on the eastern side of the Keweenaw Peninsula. It’s the last place you pass before you head up into that northern-most strip of land. Stop for gas, and drive down to the lake so you can get out and stretch your legs one last time.
The great thing about the U.P. is that the most beautiful scenes of nature—scenes that would be coveted and bought up down in the Lower Peninsula—are just quietly waiting there for anyone to come, sit, and see. There are some benches down by the water in L’Anse. Just sit for a few minutes, check your email, respond to messages, and get back on the road.
Houghton
You’ve arrived. You’re now in the heart of the Keweenaw Peninsula. You’re exhausted, and it’s time for dinner. Go to The Library downtown. Don’t worry, it’s a restaurant, not a room full of paperbacks. Good food, good drinks, and a wonderful view looking northeast over the Keweenaw Waterway.
Could you make it through the U.P. without any stops? No. You might be able to make it with a single stop at that BP at the intersection of US-2 and M-77, but why would you want to? Your drive north through the U.P. can be a total bore—or it can be a little adventure.
Eat a pasty, put your feet in the water, get a coffee, sit and look at the lake, enjoy the drive north. What do you have to lose?
O.W. Root is a writer based in Northern Michigan, with a focus on nature, food, style, and culture. Follow him on X @NecktieSalvage.
